LET'S (not) SPLIT, SPLIT, CROATIA - DAY 27
We woke up to a miracle- The sun! It’s been pissing rain for our entire Croatian trip until today. It was actually HOT! The high was 10C (50F), but with the sun it felt at least 12C-15C (53F-59F)! The locals all came out in speedos and fanny packs to the beach. We spent all of our time at the coast. We also had every intention to tour the Fortress of Klis, (a Game Of Thrones shooting location), but we ran out of time.
We started by going back to Diocletian’s Palace, and went up the bell tower for panoramic views. It was beautiful to see the light expose this ancient city. We found out later that they also filmed parts of Game Of Thrones in the basement of Diocletian's Palace- This made up for missing the Fortress of Klis.
We stop and grab brunch after zig zagging through the main city. We joke about the cigar the night before- "Who in history ever thought it was a good idea to celebrate with a cigar"?! Says Imran. We laugh and agree. I add to that by saying, "It's like smoking a cardboard box". "So gross" said Alex. Kay was getting coffee during this conversation and couldn't counteract with her reasoning behind it haha! Norris then asks me about when I drank some whiskey while sharing the cigar. Genuinely curious, he asks, "What's the appeal? What does it taste like"? Imran gives him a look, and shakes his head "no". I can tell Norris' question makes Imran and Alex uncomfortable, and I'm reminded that drinking is against their religion. I answer honestly, and say, "Well, it's not that special, and much healthier to not drink. Sometimes drinking can be a fun social activity when done in moderation. Personally, based on mine and all my friends' experiences, you start to experiment with alcohol in college, *(more likely in high school, but I was a late bloomer, and definitely not in the popular group who were taking part in this activity much earlier than I). The appeal comes from it being treated as this "forbidden fruit". You start off with the crappy tasting stuff, learning what you like and don't like, learning your limit and tolerance, and sometimes getting plastered in the process. Later as you mature, you learn about the good stuff, and sometimes you enjoy alcohol for its flavor. This can include pairing it with certain foods to enhance other flavors, like some white wines with cheese, or red wines with red meat, etc. Personally, I've learned that I really like the flavor of whiskey, and I'm really interested in its chemistry. I also know that I don't like it cut with ice or water because I think it taints and dilutes the flavor, and I don't like anything smokey". I like to think this was a pretty good, educated answer. Norris seemed satisfied with this, and Imran and Alex relax.
After brunch, we hiked and walked ALL. DAY. To be exact, we walked over 30,000 steps. We went to three different beaches, taking full advantage of the gorgeous weather. We took it slow, and enjoyed a Croatian summer without any of the tourists- We got so lucky!
The beaches are the clearest, and bluest I’ve ever seen. Croatia is a young person’s place to rough-it while traveling in, out, and through it, but I would LOVE to come back again in the summer, and drive to all of its abandoned buildings, and all along the coast. As it’s off-season, everything is closed all the time, and locals are often nowhere to be found. Everything runs in the summer for tourists, just like Lake Como. But it hasn’t deterred me for desiring another visit. Croatia is so rich with its culture, people, food, and remaining Holy Roman Empire architecture and history. I prefer to remember it as it was during that time, rather than when Soviet Russia occupied it and everything became derelict. This place feels like an extension of Italy, but even more beautiful because it has been left unknown and untouched by tourists for so long, until maybe the past 5 years or so. *(Thanks to the popular HBO show, Game Of Thrones).
For the first beach, we put our feet in the water- The Adriatic Sea was surprisingly warm. I feel like a kid again experiencing something wonderful for the first time, and have a moment of total bliss. Kay captures this candid photo of me. Satisfied, we all hiked along the rocks for unparalleled panoramic views. Layered, violet-colored, rocky mountains stretch all along the opposite coast of our vantage point. The only thing separating us was shimmering, crystal clear water of varying blue and turquoise shades. We were at least 60ft above the ocean, and could still see the rocks below in the sea. Everything was spectacularly illuminated by a golden sun- The same way everything lights up in Rome or the Amalfi Coast in the Mediterranean in the summer. Here, Kay and I Split from the boys. The boys wanted to stay for the views, and Kay and I wanted to move on until our rendezvous for lunch.
The second beach was a pebble beach. The water was so clear, it was like putting your hand in liquid glass. It almost didn't seem real- Like your eyes were deceiving you. Naturally, we skipped rocks.
After that we walked all over, met the boys, and walked some more until we reached a seafood restaurant with DELICIOUS octopus. I’ve only had better when we were in Rome, eating with Marcello and Angeta’s famous chef friend. Kay tries some of my octopus for the first time- She gives a face of "not bad". Alex orders some Pipi to drink, (pronounced "pee pee"). It's a yellow soda. You'd think between five adults, and four of us being up-and-coming Doctors that we'd be more mature, but no. Not even a little bit. "What does Pipi taste like"? *Takes a sip. "How does your Pipi taste"? "Can I drink some of your Pipi"? "Is your Pipi warm"?...
With our bellies loaded, and our faces sore from laughing at our own Pipi jokes, we head to another vantage point for the sunset. We get duped because the weather has instantly changed from summer back to winter. It’s cloudy and cold. We try anyway and sit at the park until the sun goes down. It’s still beautiful, and I love it here. The people are the most interesting. Everyone seems like such a complex, vibrant, and unique character. They dress well and so differently from any other part of the world that I've been to. I wish I could photograph the people. It’s my only regret, (like that of last night). Perhaps if and when I come back, I’ll be allotted more time to make this possible, and hopefully have the guts to even ask.
We trek back near our apartment, and continue to walk along the harbor. We walk until the sun goes down, and grab pastries and ice cream as our “last supper”. We eat on a bench together as the lights illuminate the surrounding darkness around the harbor along the coast. It’s a bittersweet feeling to have our last night in Europe together. I feel this intensely while listening to the waves softly clash against the stone harbor and subside in a perfectly timed rhythm. I take in every detail of the moment, and appreciate everything I've done, and all I have now. Kay and I had such a phenomenal time traveling through a whole continent with each other, and I’m bonding, and having such a blast with the boys. They’d easily be a part of our tight-knit high school group if we all knew each other then.
It’s an early morning for them to leave and drive 15hrs to Amalfi. I’m okay to miss this. I can sleep in a little before heading to the airport to catch my flight to Rome. I can’t believe it’s (almost) already time to come home. In all honesty, I think you lost your daughter to Europe. I’m going to try to find work here when I get back. Aside from my glorious and many "first time" experiences, this trip has taught me that if I want to make films, it doesn't need to be confined to one spot. Europe is cheaper, provides government funding for the arts, and enough resources to make whatever you please. We’ll see what God has in store for me.
We finished the night by watching a funny movie and saying “goodnight and goodbye”. I’m hoping everything goes smoothly tomorrow for check-in, bag check, and traveling to Rome to meet up with my Italian / Swedish family, Marcello and Agneta.
Love you guys.
-eM
Xoxoxox
EDIT 2021: I've learned recently that countries like Croatia, Montenegro, Bosnia, Serbia, Kosovo, Slovenia, etc. were once part of a united kingdom, Yugoslavia. After lots of conflict over religion and territories, these new countries emerged as SR, or social republics. I'm certainly not a historian, and the information is very confusing and hard to follow because it is a complicated conflict, and with multiple conflicts. Some of these countries have been at war with each other since 1992, and others are still in conflict. Regardless, I encourage everyone to do their own research about this, and I will continue to seek clarification on the subject.
