MANEATER - NAERØYFJORD, NORWAY - DAY 7
I woke up feeling so much better. That Nexium capsule that Anita gave to me worked like a miracle pill. I still don’t know if I’m 100% good, but I feel loads better- I no longer feel pain in my stomach.
I wake up before all of my bunk mates. First at 2:30AM, and then every hour after until 5AM.
I catch my train and head to Naerøyfjorden for my fjord tour. My eyes are half closed, but with my stomach in better shape for a new adventure, my spirits are high.
I had picked up my tickets yesterday from the train station when I arrived in Bergen. Naerøyfjorden was actually recommended to me by Ove, along with Trolltunga. *(I unfortunately did not have enough time to go and explore Trolltunga, but would love to someday, and to explore more of Norway in the future). I took his word for it when I was planning this trip, and the ONLY option available to see the fjord in one day, round-trip back to Bergen, was picking up a basic package from Active Norway, doing a fjord safari. It was my most expensive purchase on this entire trip, and I only agreed to spend that much because I didn't have more time to spare before heading to Oslo.
On our way, leaving the Central Station, we pass towering mountains so steep and so high, they seem to sometimes curve, and hang over us. I come into Myrdal to catch my train to Flåm. It’s freezing, but I layer up and take in the view until the next train comes.
I catch the more traditional, charming, Flåm train, and we head to the fjords. We stop once for a tourist event. The insurmountable amount of tourists unpack from the carts to swarm and take photos of this one waterfall, Kjosfossen. There, they had a performer from an old Norse legend. The performer was Huldra. According to folklore, she is a women in a red dress who would seduce men, lure them into the forest, and kill them after having her way with them. Sounds like feminism, and I'm here for it. ...I actually thought this whole bit was really cheesy, but enjoyed it for what it was. *I found out later, the performer is typically a student from the Norwegian ballet school.
We clamber on back into the carts and carry on. Every time we passed a new view, the tourists rushed the windows to capture everything on their iPhones. I appreciate that this is so special to them- It is for me as well, but, (forgive me for sounding utterly condescending), the sight of this makes me want to puke. I feel like I’m at a resort, and everyone’s rushing to get the last shrimp cocktail, or to put their towel on a chair to claim their spot at the pool. If it isn't well-known by now, I like things that are off the beaten path, and can lead to a new discovery. Once it becomes a commodity, it just feels like I'm at an amusement park, where the only goal is to try and sell you something.
We come to Flåm, and it’s a town for the tourists. They have all of their tent-set-ups and attractions, although, the surrounding nature is glorious. I stop to enjoy some packed lunch and gaze at the view. We’re blessed with perfect, warm weather.
Finally, our fjord Safari is ready. We suit up in special, warm, safety suits and “hit the road”. We zip around the fjords, and stop at a few small towns and waterfalls listening to facts about the impossibly small, surrounding communities. The boat ride is a blast! The speed boats zip around two at a time. The neighboring boat has all of their passengers wave at my camera as I film them. We also have a female boat captain, either my age, or a tad younger- I think this is super badass.
Our first stop is at Undredal. Their church is 900 years old, and it was the only church around for 700 years. Everyone, rain or shine, would take their boats over to Undredal every Sunday, until an avalanche capsized one boat. Now of course, there are several churches in the surrounding neighborhoods. This town is also known for its cheese. I learned from our Norwegian family that brown cheese is a Norwegian specialty. It’s so sweet, that many people are having it with their dessert waffles.
We move on, and discuss the fjord. Naerøyfjorden, or "Narrow Fjord" is part of UNESCO. During the winter, all of the fresh water at the top freezes, making the water below saltier. From this, more wildlife comes in, like orcas and porpoises. During the summer however, everything melts, and the freshwater flows in, making it less salty- Ergo, less visible sea life. Naerøyfjorden is the second longest fjord next to Canada. (Technically it’s the third- Greenland being the first, but everything is frozen there so it doesn’t count). We travel for an hour and a half, but our tour ends too soon. We hop off at Gudvangen, or "Road of the Gods", to catch a bus back to Voss. Our drive back reminds me A LOT of Switzerland. Alpines as far as the eye could see.
At Voss, the train was late, so I snapped a few pix, and then took the train back to Bergen. I enjoyed my ride looking out the window and listening to music the whole way. I wanted to sleep again, but passing the sights a second time simply couldn’t be missed.
I would say this safari was extremely enjoyable, but being brutally honest, I have to admit that this wasn't worth it for me. For being as expensive as it was, this is a hard pill to swallow. I easily could have skipped this, and would've felt like I wouldn't have missed a thing. I think if people want to come here, and they haven't seen anything like this before, then this would be worth every penny. However, since I've now recently been exposed to the Swiss Alps, the fjords in New Zealand, and Lysefjord before coming here, I felt like this was over priced, and I regret it a little, knowing I could've saved a huge-ish chunk of money. Although I haven't been everywhere in Norway, the few places I've seen before this fjord, makes me fully aware that there is far more beauty to experience for a much lower price.
Back in Bergen I pick up a couple of things from the store, pack more sandwiches and pack for Oslo. I run into a bunkmate- A British guy cycling through Norway. He's from Birmingham, and I tell him one of my best friends is from there- Small world! He said he was bored at home one day, and simply decided to go for a ride through the country here. Sounds like a bit of a "Forest Gump decision", but what a cool thing to be able to do, and have time for! I feel like this would never be feasible in the States for a young person to just pick up and go like that. He's really nice, and we chat about my recent discovery of my family here, where I'm heading to next, and what I did today. He tells me about his trip thus far, and how it's been cycling through the country with a few other cyclists he's met. It's quite a physical feat to accomplish- He's burned so many calories coming in to Bergen, that he's done nothing but eat and sleep for a full day since he arrived. I guess the intensity of recovery matches the intensity of physical exertion. He's already munched through all of his cereal in one sitting, and is about to head out for a BBQ with some friends he's met. I unfortunately forgot his name, but he's absolutely one of the coolest people I've come across while traveling- He's only a bit younger than myself!
Leaving tomorrow- Another EARLY train.
See you in a couple days!
-eM
