THE G-SPOT - LAKE COMO, ITALY - DAY 23
I wake up at 5AM to catch the train from Milan to Como. I figure out the ticket machine by myself because there isn’t anyone around to know nothing- Of course. Como is the last stop, and towards the end I begin to shut my eyes due to lack of sleep. I’m immediately awakened by the sunrise coming over the domes, cathedrals and sprawling hills that is Como. I hop off the train and roughly navigate to my hostel. I’m awestruck, and distracted by the lake, where the hostel is right in front of. I pull out my cameras and have a photo session. When satisfied with my newly added media, I back track to the hostel, (the same hostel company as the one in Milan). I’m warmly received with a free cappuccino and breakfast. I drop my bags and go next door for groceries. I pick up a "congratulations" / "thank you" bottle of white wine for Kay. I also snag lunch for the train ride tomorrow, a few Kinder eggs, and something for you and Dad.
I leave my groceries at the hostel with my packs, and venture out to the Ferry. I buy a pricey ticket for Varenna very early. All the money I didn’t spend in Milan, I spent here. I kill time by wandering around the main square. It's serene because it's still early, and the city is slowly coming alive- I have it all to myself. I come across a BEAUTIFUL cathedral, and wander through all of the alleyways, and small streets. I was right to assume I would like Como more than Milan; it’s more luxurious, and sophisticated than Rome and far less pretentious than Milan. Everyone is dressed well, the streets are clean, and although nothing appears pretentious, I’m fully aware everyone and everything is made of money.
I head back to the harbor and catch my ferry to Varenna- I'm the first one there. The Captain, Fuvio, and his crew inquire about my cameras. We share a lengthy conversation and swap life stories with each other until the other passengers arrive to board. I befriend Fuvio, and while on the boat, he sits by me and gives me a private tour of the entire lake- No one else. As Dad says, "The Italians love the Swedes" haha!
Captain Fuvio points out where Clooney’s house is, (Fuvio met him once), where John Legend got married, where the Head of Spotify got married, where Jay-Z, Beyoncé, and Sam Smith stayed once, and where the CEO of Heineken has his house. He also showed me the villa where they shot "Star Wars: Attack of the Clones", (my favorite fact), and where a famous Italian Director used to live.
Captain Fuvio mentioned that Lake Como is so beautiful, he’s lived here his entire life, and never tires of it. Although, he did mention that it’s not very nice right now in the Winter. I can only imagine what it’s like with everything in bloom. He asked me where I was stopping and I told him Varenna. Even though it’s Winter, I’m hoping to get really lucky and have the sun come out just enough so I can capture it with my cameras. Captain Fuvio mentions that not many people know of Varenna- He's impressed that I do. He said in the summer, the light stays there forever. He also mentioned that Varenna is his favorite place, but that I should also see Bellagio, (where the rest of the tourists on the boat were heading). Captain Fuvio explained, “Italians have a saying- Lake Como looks like a woman’s legs. Bellagio is the G-Spot of Lake Como”. I thought this was hilarious, and I’ll definitely reference it for the rest of my life. Looking at the map, it's simply the damn truth.
We arrive in Varenna, and we say our goodbyes. He wishes me luck on my films, and is impressed that I’m doing what I love at such a young age. We shake hands and I thank him for the wonderful tour.
Varenna is stunning! It’s off season so everything is closed, and there’s only a handful of tourists. Once again, I have the whole place to myself! I run up, down, and all round shooting everything. Then guess what? THE SUN COMES OUT FOR 10 MINUTES. I shoot it all, and thank my lucky stars that fate has warped the weather to bend in my favor. At this point I’m starting to get really hungry, but there’s nothing open, so I explore the other side of Varenna, and snag a ferry ticket to Bellagio for a few more euros. I may as well- It would seem to be a wasted trip to Como for just one place.
I finish shooting and wait at the harbor. A Turkish lady chats me up. I didn’t mention anything about being half Armenian- Why instantly sour a sweet acquaintance? She was traveling here with her daughter after visiting her niece in Milan who is studying Economics. She’s a school teacher and has worked her whole life to make this trip. I already knew / know what a blessing this trip is, but this interaction was just another beautiful reminder. I wished her well, and caught the ferry over to Bellagio.
I still prefer Varenna, but Bellagio was pretty as well. At this point, it’s 3PM and I am famished. I find ONE open spot where all of the locals are eating. It’s of course still expensive, but I get the most basic dish. All I had was some pasta, garlic, oil and chili peppers. I’ve said it before, but I’ll say it again- Italian food is SO. DAMN. GOOD.
It’s freezing, but I get gelato right after. I try to savor the Italian cuisine, but I have no self control and I inhale everything. Now I’m really exhausted, I’m sleep deprived, been traveling, ran some errands, climbed all over Lake Como, and was now in a mini food Como- Coma.
I catch the ferry back to Como just as the sun is setting. I properly check-in to my hostel and instantly click with my bunk-mate, Lauren. She’s Australian and is the second Aussie that I’ve met who’s traveling abroad for three months. She country hopped with her sister first, like me and Kay are doing, and is now going through all of Italy by herself to learn Italian. What a way to get an education! We grab a free dinner at the hostel with two other Italian boys she knows. One is from Napoli, another place in Italy I’d love to see. We eat a typical spaghetti and salad dinner before I have to excuse myself early. I need to wake up at 4AM. I have a random and sudden sinking feeling that getting to Croatia is going to be difficult. I don’t know why I feel this, but it puts me on edge. I fall asleep hoping that this will be a challenge easily tackled tomorrow.
Love you!
-eM
Xoxox