ALONE BUT NOT LONELY - THE HEBRIDES, SCOTLAND - DAY 9
We chased sunsets last night along the same beaches we’d been to earlier that day. We were met with beautiful blue sky until 10pm. In the midst of our drive, we pulled over to take a few shots. Low and behold, I found a tee for golfing, but there’s not a golf course for miles. I told Andrea and we knew it was a little sign from Grandpa. I've never seen a more beautiful sky. It literally looked like what we imagine Heaven to be- Oranges, blues, pinks, sun rays puncturing through clouds, all reflected and mirrored on the sea below. Andrea got it on the nose when she said, “it’s basically the Caribbean, but it’s unusual because it’s not meant to be here, (so far north and in the middle of nowhere)”.
It rained all evening, but we slept easier last night. Apparently it takes three shirts, two jackets, two hats, and two socks to keep warm at night, cocooned in our sleeping bags.
We woke early again to miss tourists. Today, we have an hour and a half drive north.
We kill time on the drive by listening to the first Harry Potter audio book. I’ve always wanted to re-read them but never seem to have the time. I forgot how great they are. Andrea of course, can recite paragraphs to the letter. *(Edit: I wrote this before J.K. Rowling tweeted, please don't come for me).
Lots of empty scenery later, and a few chapters into Harry Potter, we come to the standing stones. They’re about 3-5 thousand years old, but like Stone Henge, archeologists and scientists can’t figure out why they were erected. Some speculate it was to resemble certain zodiac signs, others say it was to tell between different seasons, or simply to respect a Celtic religion. There’s no one around, so Andrea and I actually take funny photos of us with the stones. I’m sorry, but we’ve committed stone sacrilege. We decide to leave at the perfect time- A tour bus full of senior citizens offload in droves and take over the place.
We carry on to the Blackhouse Village. It’s later in the day, and there’s two full tour buses already parked. The small town is full of elderly people- We’re the youngest ones there. The houses are very charming. Everything is built from large stones, hay-thatched roofs, and stones on rope to weigh down the hay. A few construction workers speaking Gaelic (gah-lick), are re-doing some of the roofs. We ask how long they last, and they reply in English, saying they repair the roofs every 10-20 years...The roofs are about as old as we are. They then said, “Not too many young people around”- surprised at us. There were only about maybe seven houses like these left, and were last inhabited in the 70s, but surprisingly, there’s a hostel here in one of the homes. On our way out, we realize we’ve accidentally bypassed the 3.50 pound to get in to the area. We didn’t feel too badly- We donated by buying coffee, fudge and two postcards for mom. Driving off, we pass the famous Harris twead factory. It’s no longer open to the public but it’s just three brown barns on the outside and looks quite “used”. It’s mainly a place of work, and not for curious outsiders these days. We forge on Stornoway.
What’s funny, is that we’ve passed about 20 galleries and studios. I guess when there’s nothing to do, you make art. I’m fully aware that’s a jab at myself, but it’s truly bizarre how many there are here. But there’s not much to see up north and it’s hardly populated. It made me beg the question if anyone might be inbred. The landscape isn’t very attractive either. It reminds me of film shoots in California, farrrrrr out in the desert where there’s sometimes a run down house in the middle of nowhere that you’ll pass. We did see an old Norse mill and kiln. The Vikings have laid theirs markings everywhere from the raids. I don’t know why they’d sail so far north though- Freezing their tits off.
Eventually we come to Stornoway, a small town just populated enough for a Starbucks to appear. It’s located with the Stornaway Castle and museum that we visited...Next to a golf course. :) The castle doesn’t have anything in it, but is now used for weddings and various other events.
The museum showcases the islanders and their Gaelic language. It’s a dying language unfortunately, but it keeps them linked to their heritage and culture. It’s still spoken the most in the Hebrides, and sounds a bit Germanic or Dutch. Only two generations ago, no one spoke English, it was only Gaelic. That of course has since changed. People are proud to be from here. Outsiders like us think the Isle is at the edge of the Earth, but to the natives they interviewed at the museum in a video, think it’s the center of the world. Stornoway is a small community with the people having many jobs and skills to survive. They love the wind, rain and sun here. It’s true I’m just an outsider where I could never imagine myself living or thriving here, but the people are proud to be where they are from, and are much stronger for it. They certainly have my full respect.
Hungry for lunch, we seek out the best Thai food in Scotland. Andrea and I see the hilarity in that we travel all the way to Scotland...for Thai food. I joked thinking it’s probably the best Thai food because it the ONLY Thai food here. We come to an empty hole-in-the-wall spot, and it is in fact, the best Thai food I’ve ever had. I had chicken and veggies with egg noodles and Andrea had fried tofu, curry and rice. I couldn’t eat fast enough, and even when I cleaned my plate, I kept picking at the remaining noodle scraps and sauces. I didn’t think I could eat so much in one sitting. Admittedly, I’ve been thoroughly enjoying my canned dinners over a campfire but this is such a treat to have a hot fresh, flavorful meal. We gotta walk it off a bit and digest.
There’s not much in this town, but there are loads of second hand shops. Andrea insists on going into every one to find unusual Harry Potter things. I find golf balls with the Scottish lion crest, and Andrea buys a signed football jersey for 6 pounds. We also pop into a few twead shops.
It’s rightfully windy and cold, so we decide to pop into a small cafe. They serve traditional sticky toffee pudding, and we decide to get some here- My first one! Without a doubt, it’s one of the best desserts I’ve ever had. With two scoops of vanilla ice cream, and caramel and chocolate syrups drenching a sweet cake. I thought it would be too sweet for me to enjoy, but I found myself inhaling that just as quickly as our Thai lunch. We’re so stuffed and this is the most we’ve eaten during this whole trip. The server asks where we’re from and where we’re staying. We told him we’re staying south and fully serious, he says “Oh yeah it’s busy down there” haha! That’s how small and sleepy Stornoway is. There’s mostly old people, and all old people running the shops and that. Some kids are here of course but I guess the elderly just never left. They’ve been here for generations, and are so fixed in their ways...(Inbred for sure). For example, I saw an elderly couple sitting down to eat. The menu had new Indian food and with all the variety, they still chose fish and chips- Everything fried with peas and a cup of tea.
All of it’s rather secluded and odd up here. I’ve seen white people before but everyone here is so fair that it’s as though the cold wind sucked the pigment clean off. Their eyes, hair and skin are the fairest I’ve yet seen.
This is an awful thing to say but an observation that needs to be said...Lots of the people here look like they have a touch of the Downs, (Down Syndrome). They’re eyes are separated further apart than normal...Definitely inbred. I mentioned this to Andrea and as we drove off to an old church in Knock. We pass a young couple on the street and Andrea, without skipping a beat, says, Oh look, cousins”!
The last thing we see are ruins from an old church and a graveyard by the sea. The beaches are so beautiful, with all shades of blue as displayed in every gallery and shop. The wind is so cold however, that if I imagine Norsemen sailing these waters I’d have to revoke my Viking card. It’s too f***ing cold.
We head out and back to camp. I feel bad because I think Andrea is really exhausted from driving. I really wish I could drive stick and help her out. I suggest listening to more Harry Potter for the ride back and that seems to work.
A few others things that I’ve noticed on this trip so far... There are just as many Bed and Breakfasts as there are galleries and studios. I think if anyone wanted to come here without a place to stay or with any particular plan or agenda, they’d be just fine for finding accommodations. Because there are mostly elderly people occupying this island, time does seem to have stalled. Even at the gas pumps you are required to wait for assistance.
Back at camp to have a fire and read. I’m lending one of the three books that Andrea brought, “How To Be Alone” by Lane Moore. More (pun intended) tomorrow!!
