THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PLACE ON EARTH - THE HEBRIDES, SCOTLAND - DAY 8

Last night we saw sun for the first time. It was setting in a pink, glorious sky. Chasing it was rather difficult though. We were trying to make it to the west side but went the wrong direction first. We hiked up a boggy, marshy hill hoping to get a better view, but were only met with more land separating us. We back tracked and drove to the west side. Andrea and I got a bit frustrated with each other here. I insisted we drive and that we wouldn’t miss the sun because we're so north of the equator, and the sun tends to hang out when it shows itself. But Andrea knew the weather and clouds could change and cover everything in three seconds if it desired.

She believed the hike up a hill would allow us to see the sunset but I protested saying there’ll just be more land. The Isle is small, but it's not THAT small. It was 9:30pm after all, and we were tired. Two hills later, I was proven correct- We hike down. Andrea wanted to drive back to camp but I insisted that we drive to the other side. I felt it in my bones we’d still catch something great. Indeed, we managed. The sun was gone but the light couldn’t be missed. It was a beautiful sight unlike any we've had before, and we snapped away. We both drove home happy after that.

Sleeping in the tent was a new challenge. We have two tarps, bed padding, and sleeping bags, but we both felt like popsicles, wearing all of our clothes. Andrea’s lower half was freezing and my upper half was numb. Now I know what everyone meant at the campsite when our neighbors all told us “We were very brave”. It’s a pretty funny sight when everyone’s wearing winter clothes for summer. In any case, we barely slept.

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I’m awoken by Andrea shouting for me to get out of bed. “Emilie! Emilie wake up! There’s sunshine!”. After both of us only sleeping a few hours, I could hardly get up, but when I did, we both felt like kids on Christmas morning. Without changing, brushing our teeth or even eating breakfast, we rush out of the tent and get to the car to zip off to the beaches. God answered our prayers and because it was so early, we were the only ones at all three beach sites. Our photography excursion was a massive success.

At the last beach, the turn off is so small, we missed it the first time. We turn back and hike through two farms, hopping fences to get to it. I get nervous and ask if we’ll be in trouble for trespassing. Andrea explained that in all of the UK, only Scotland has a law, “Freedom to roam”. It’s exactly like Sweden’s “Alla mans rätt”, or “Every man’s right”. You can basically explore and camp anywhere you please. The land comes before people.

We find an impossibly small sign on a post that signals we’re welcome and heading in the right direction, “Exploring the Hebrides” (Heh-birdies), or as I pronounce it, the He-Brides.

There’s isn’t a soul in sight. We’re the first footprints on the sand, and it looks simply glorious. The sand far from the beach is hard and feels like we’re on another planet, free to explore it on our own for the first time. As we get closer, the sand moistens but remains stuck to itself so walking on it isn’t difficult. It has the consistency of that magnetic sand that kids play with. It doesn’t smell like the ocean either. You know how lots of beaches have that salty or fishy smell? None of these do. It’s too cold. What is unusual however, is that this beach smells of cows, sounds of sheep, and is surrounded by mountains with natural ripples and swirls in the soil. We even see a beach bunny zoom across the sand.

So what do two brave, free, independent women do on a massive, open beach with not a soul for miles? We take our tops off, and race toward the freedom set before us.

We take pictures running in the sunny sand with the various shades of blue in the water and surrounding mountains. We play with the drone and we capture splendid images of one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever experienced on this Earth. God answered our prayers ten fold when got to have the sun today.

We even nap because for the first time, the sun can warm us and we’ve only had about 2-3 hours of sleep. It’s the best thing I’ve experienced on this entire trip. I snack on a power bar, and doze off letting the sun and sand warm my half naked body. The small breeze combs through my hair, and keeps the sun at a perfect temperature while the sound of the soft waves coming in and out of shore lull me sleep. Everything is still at the edge of the Earth.

An hour later and some people actually appear. The tourists come, and locals run on the beach with their dogs. We cover up, head back to the campsite and pass a golf course. Thanks Grandpa. We also pull over to an open studio area. We view local artists’ work, all paintings and photographs trying to capture all of the blues that this Isle has to offer. The studio itself is a collective for people to come and create. It’s a trust and people have to prove their heritage to be able to stay there- Very cool.

We carry on, and pass Horgabost campsite right on one of the beaches. It doesn’t appear to have any facilities, but we envy that we could’ve camped there instead had it been advertised online.

Back at our campsite, Andrea showers, and I nap. (She jumped into the freezing waters at the beach but I avoided doing that at all costs. I’m showering tomorrow evening). I sleep for 3.5 hours until it begins to rain. The tent stays dry thankfully, and I feel like a new woman.

Andrea eats a bit and naps in the car where it was warmer.

We head out for a few more snacks and food. I pick up some post cards for Mom, and I take my first portrait of an interesting character native to the Isle. I was terrified to ask, but felt brilliant for capturing my first portrait of a stranger. I think he was a lying sea dog, but his story to me was, “I used to rob banks. Me and me mates would nick Jaguars and drive the blue coppers when robbing. They didn’t have CC TVs like they do now. We got away with it every time. Now I just live in the mountains and count me money”. He also told me I was the loveliest lady he’s ever seen, ha! I think you’ll be proud of my picture Dad. He’s got a small beard, squinted weathered eyes, rosy cheeks, dressed in an old camo jacket, two small scarfs and a Scottish twead flat cap, holding a bud and a beer, sitting on top of stacks of dirt for gardening. I shook his hand and thanked him after.

Before heading back to cook dinner at camp, we stop in at the same cafe hotel for coffee and tea.

More tomorrow!